Historic Jewish Quarter of Prague
Cameras walk Prague’s old Jewish quarter from 1926 to 1937, then go inside the Old-New Synagogue in 1946.
Use the year buttons to jump. 1926 opens the file. 1934 begins at about 6:31. 1935 begins at about 8:33. 1936 begins at about 9:57. 1937 begins at about 10:25. 1946 begins at about 16:01. About 18 minutes in all.
Hands the other way
The Jewish Town Hall stands on Maiselova, next to the Old-New Synagogue. On the gable a Hebrew clock runs counterclockwise, under a Roman face and a Star of David on the spire. Sebastian Londenspreger, the royal clockmaker who also kept the St Vitus clocks, made the works. They are about 250 years old. Until 1891 they showed Prague local time, set from the Marian column on Old Town Square. After that they show Central European time. The building and both clocks are still on that corner.
The stepped gable
The Old-New Synagogue was built in the last third of the thirteenth century. It is still the main shul of the Prague kehilla. The stepped brick gable and the low annex sit on the same street as the Town Hall, on Červená and Maiselova.
A sign on the wall
Pinkas Synagogue sits on the same block. The houses around its arch came down in the asanace (the clearance that cut new streets through the old Jewish quarter), 1907–1910. The street was raised. The shul sat lower. In 1925 a heritage commission asked for the fill to be taken out. It was not. The building is still there.
Tablets and the star
Maisel Synagogue was built for the Prague kehilla under Mordechai Maisel in the late sixteenth century. The gable carries the Ten Commandments and a Star of David. The building is a Jewish Museum hall now. The street in front of it is ticketed museum traffic.
Jídelna Hirsch
Bílkova 19 held a kosher kitchen, Jídelna Hirsch, with a wall sign in Czech, Hebrew, and Yiddish. The house number is still on that door. The kitchen and the trilingual board are gone.
The hall and the banner
The Chevra Kadisha, the burial society, built the Ceremonial Hall in 1906–1908, at the edge of the old cemetery. Later they leased it to the Jewish Museum. A print shop, Občanská knihtiskárna, worked in the quarter. In the mid-1930s their imprint said Maiselova 17. By 1939 a directory puts them at U Starého hřbitova 4, the street of the hall. The hall is still there, a museum building. The neighboring building no longer carries that shop’s banner.
Among the stones
The Old Jewish Cemetery took burials from 1439 to 1787. Later stones were stacked over earlier graves. After it closed, the Prague kehilla buried at Žižkov, on Fibichova. A visitor now pays for a path through the old field. The stones are the same crowded ground.
The Nefele mound
A 1903 cut went through the cemetery. Stones were set in the wall, and a burial-society monument went up on the Nefele mound in 1906. The memorial is still there. Cemetery conservation on this field has been running since 1946.
Maisel’s house
Mordechai Maisel, who built the Maisel Synagogue in the late sixteenth century, is buried under a house-shaped monument in the old cemetery. The grave is still there. A visitor now sees it from a boarded walk.
Visitor stones
The Maharal, Rabbi Judah Loew, was niftar in 1609. His grave is the cemetery’s most visited monument. People leave small stones on the ledges, the usual mark of a Jewish grave visit. The grave is still there.
The lion and the shield
Hendl Bassevi was the wife of Jacob Bassevi von Treuenberg. Her grave in the old cemetery carries a seated lion with its paws on a shield. The grave is still on the path. A small plaque now names her.
After the card
Rabbi David Oppenheim was land rabbi of Prague. He was niftar in 1736. His grave is the middle stone of a row in the old cemetery.
The iron cage
Inside the Old-New the bimah sits in a wrought-iron cage, before the ark. After the war a remnant, the She’eris Hapletah, used this room again. On 3 October 1946, March of Time (a cinema newsreel) filmed a Torah ceremony there. The catalog says American Jews gave that Torah to the Prague kehilla. The cage and the ark are still in that room.
Prague
Jewish Town Hall and Old-New Synagogue
Červená / Maiselova, historic Jewish Quarter, Prague
50.0902, 14.4187
Google Earth view of the Town Hall and the Old-New Synagogue today. Open in Google Earth.
The film and what followed
German troops entered Prague on 15 March 1939. From 1941 the occupation authorities deported Prague’s Jews. The kehilla that used this street as a street was emptied. After the war a remnant, the She’eris Hapletah, used the Old-New again.
Timeline
- Last third of the 13th century
- Old-New Synagogue built; still the Prague kehilla’s main shul.
- 1439–1787
- Old Jewish Cemetery in use; later stones stacked over earlier graves.
- 1609
- The Maharal, Rabbi Judah Loew, is niftar; his grave becomes the cemetery’s most visited monument.
- 1787–1890
- Žižkov cemetery, on Fibichova, takes the Prague kehilla’s burials after the old cemetery closes; about 40,000 graves.
- 1891
- The Town Hall clocks switch from Prague local time to Central European time.
- 1893–1912
- The old quarter’s lanes are cleared and the new streets are cut.
- 1906–1908
- The Chevra Kadisha builds the Ceremonial Hall.
- 1907–1910
- Houses around Pinkas Synagogue come down in the asanace. The street is raised. In 1925 a heritage commission asks for the fill to be taken out. It is not.
- 1925
- A smaller slice of the Žižkov cemetery is already turned into a park, under the First Republic, before the later communist destruction.
- 1926
- First film in this video: the Old-New Synagogue and the cemetery, including the Nefele mound, Maisel’s grave, the Maharal’s grave, Hendl Bassevi’s, and a card for Oppenheimer.
- 1934
- Second film: the Town Hall clock, the Maisel Synagogue, a kosher kitchen sign on Bílkova, and the old cemetery.
- 1935
- Silent amateur reel: the Hebrew clock, a quarter street, and the Maisel Synagogue gable.
- 1936
- Amateur reel: the Hebrew clock and the Pinkas Synagogue sign.
- 1937
- The Hebrew clock, the shul courtyard, the Ceremonial Hall and the print-shop banner beside it, and the Maharal’s grave up close, with visitor stones on the ledge.
- 15 March 1939
- German occupation of Prague.
- 1941–1945
- Deportations empty the Prague kehilla.
- 3 October 1946
- March of Time films a Torah ceremony inside the Old-New. The catalog says American Jews gave that Torah.
- 1960
- Communist authorities destroy most of the Žižkov cemetery and turn the ground into a park.
- 1985–1992
- Žižkov Television Tower built on the former cemetery; a northern remnant remains beside the tower.