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Prague · 1926–1946

Historic Jewish Quarter of Prague

Published

Cameras walk Prague’s old Jewish quarter from 1926 to 1937, then go inside the Old-New Synagogue in 1946.

Use the year buttons to jump. 1926 opens the file. 1934 begins at about 6:31. 1935 begins at about 8:33. 1936 begins at about 9:57. 1937 begins at about 10:25. 1946 begins at about 16:01. About 18 minutes in all.

Hands the other way

The Jewish Town Hall stands on Maiselova, next to the Old-New Synagogue. On the gable a Hebrew clock runs counterclockwise, under a Roman face and a Star of David on the spire. Sebastian Londenspreger, the royal clockmaker who also kept the St Vitus clocks, made the works. They are about 250 years old. Until 1891 they showed Prague local time, set from the Marian column on Old Town Square. After that they show Central European time. The building and both clocks are still on that corner.

1934 film frame: Jewish Town Hall from the street, Hebrew clock on the gable
1934: the Town Hall from the street. The Hebrew clock sits on the gable.
1935 film frame: Jewish Town Hall tower, Hebrew clock below the Roman clock
1935: the same tower, both clocks.
1936 film frame: Hebrew clock on the Jewish Town Hall gable
1936: the Hebrew clock on the gable.
1937 film frame: Jewish Town Hall and Old-New Synagogue from above the street
1937: the Town Hall and the shul from above the street.
Jewish Town Hall today, Hebrew clock on the gable and Roman clock on the tower
Today: the same Town Hall, both clocks. Photograph: Yair Haklai.

The stepped gable

The Old-New Synagogue was built in the last third of the thirteenth century. It is still the main shul of the Prague kehilla. The stepped brick gable and the low annex sit on the same street as the Town Hall, on Červená and Maiselova.

1926 film frame: Old-New Synagogue stepped gable from the street, Town Hall behind
1926: the stepped gable from the street, Town Hall behind.
1934 film frame: Old-New Synagogue and Jewish Town Hall from the street
1934: the same gable, from the street beside the Town Hall.
1936 film frame: Old-New Synagogue stepped gable from the street
1936: the same gable in the street line.
1937 film frame: Old-New Synagogue brick gable from the street
1937: the same gable from the street.
Old-New Synagogue today, stepped brick gable and lower wall from the street
Today: the same gable and lower wall. Photograph: Daniel Baránek.

A sign on the wall

Pinkas Synagogue sits on the same block. The houses around its arch came down in the asanace (the clearance that cut new streets through the old Jewish quarter), 1907–1910. The street was raised. The shul sat lower. In 1925 a heritage commission asked for the fill to be taken out. It was not. The building is still there.

1936 film frame: wall sign reading PINKASOVA SYNAGOGA and PROHLÍDKA beside a stone arch
1936: the Pinkas Synagogue sign beside the arch.
Pinkas Synagogue today, courtyard and tiled roofs
Today: the same shul from the courtyard. Photograph: Chmee2.

Tablets and the star

Maisel Synagogue was built for the Prague kehilla under Mordechai Maisel in the late sixteenth century. The gable carries the Ten Commandments and a Star of David. The building is a Jewish Museum hall now. The street in front of it is ticketed museum traffic.

1934 film frame: Maisel Synagogue gable with the Ten Commandments and a Star of David
1934: the gable. Tablets and the star.
1935 film frame: Maisel Synagogue gable, tight on the Decalogue and the Star of David
1935: the same gable, tight on the Decalogue and the star.
Maisel Synagogue today, white gable with the Ten Commandments and Star of David
Today: the same gable from the street. Photograph: Michal Kmínek.

Jídelna Hirsch

Bílkova 19 held a kosher kitchen, Jídelna Hirsch, with a wall sign in Czech, Hebrew, and Yiddish. The house number is still on that door. The kitchen and the trilingual board are gone.

1934 film frame: Jídelna Hirsch kosher restaurant sign, Bílkova 19, in Czech, Hebrew, and Yiddish
1934: the kosher kitchen sign, Bílkova 19.
Bílkova 19 today, peach facade and doorway, no Hirsch kitchen sign
Today: the same address. The kitchen is gone. Photograph: Jiří Matějíček.

The hall and the banner

The Chevra Kadisha, the burial society, built the Ceremonial Hall in 1906–1908, at the edge of the old cemetery. Later they leased it to the Jewish Museum. A print shop, Občanská knihtiskárna, worked in the quarter. In the mid-1930s their imprint said Maiselova 17. By 1939 a directory puts them at U Starého hřbitova 4, the street of the hall. The hall is still there, a museum building. The neighboring building no longer carries that shop’s banner.

1937 film frame: Ceremonial Hall turret, with a civic banner on the neighboring building to the side
1937: the hall at left; the OBČANSKÁ KI… banner is on the building beside it.
Ceremonial Hall today, stone turret and doorway
Today: the same turreted hall. Photograph: Jim Linwood.

Among the stones

The Old Jewish Cemetery took burials from 1439 to 1787. Later stones were stacked over earlier graves. After it closed, the Prague kehilla buried at Žižkov, on Fibichova. A visitor now pays for a path through the old field. The stones are the same crowded ground.

1926 film frame: Old Jewish Cemetery, stones among trees
1926: stacked stones under the trees.
1934 film frame: overgrown Old Jewish Cemetery
1934: the same crowded field, still woodland.
1937 film frame: overgrown Old Jewish Cemetery, stones among undergrowth
1937: stacked stones in unmanaged woodland.
Old Jewish Cemetery today, a crowded field of stones
Today: the same crowded stones. Photograph: Uoaei1.

The Nefele mound

A 1903 cut went through the cemetery. Stones were set in the wall, and a burial-society monument went up on the Nefele mound in 1906. The memorial is still there. Cemetery conservation on this field has been running since 1946.

1926 film frame: Nefele burial-society memorial among trees, two men in hats
1926: the Nefele memorial among the trees.
Klausen end of the Old Jewish Cemetery today, the Nefele side of the stone field
Today: the Klausen end of the cemetery, the Nefele side.

Maisel’s house

Mordechai Maisel, who built the Maisel Synagogue in the late sixteenth century, is buried under a house-shaped monument in the old cemetery. The grave is still there. A visitor now sees it from a boarded walk.

1926 film frame: Mordechai Maisel’s house-shaped grave among trees
1926: Maisel’s grave among the trees.
Mordechai Maisel’s grave today, the same house-shaped monument beside the path
Today: the same monument, beside the paid path. Photograph: Yair Haklai.

Visitor stones

The Maharal, Rabbi Judah Loew, was niftar in 1609. His grave is the cemetery’s most visited monument. People leave small stones on the ledges, the usual mark of a Jewish grave visit. The grave is still there.

1926 film frame: the Maharal’s grave among trees
1926: the Maharal’s grave, pinecone finial still on the monument.
1937 film frame: the Maharal’s grave
1937: the same monument.
The Maharal’s grave today, visitor stones on the ledges
Today: the same monument. Visitor stones sit on the ledges on purpose. Photograph: Yair Haklai.

The lion and the shield

Hendl Bassevi was the wife of Jacob Bassevi von Treuenberg. Her grave in the old cemetery carries a seated lion with its paws on a shield. The grave is still on the path. A small plaque now names her.

1926 film frame: Hendl Bassevi’s grave, a seated lion with its paws on a shield
1926: the lion and shield.
Hendl Bassevi’s grave today, the same monument with lions and a visitor plaque
Today: the same monument. Photograph: Øyvind Holmstad.

After the card

Rabbi David Oppenheim was land rabbi of Prague. He was niftar in 1736. His grave is the middle stone of a row in the old cemetery.

1926 film frame: ornate cemetery markers after the Oppenheimer title card; not Oppenheimer’s grave
1926: after the Oppenheimer card. This is not his grave.
Rabbi David Oppenheim’s grave today, the middle stone
Today: the middle grave is his. Photograph: Jewish Genealogy Portal.

The iron cage

Inside the Old-New the bimah sits in a wrought-iron cage, before the ark. After the war a remnant, the She’eris Hapletah, used this room again. On 3 October 1946, March of Time (a cinema newsreel) filmed a Torah ceremony there. The catalog says American Jews gave that Torah to the Prague kehilla. The cage and the ark are still in that room.

1946 film frame: Torah ceremony inside the Old-New Synagogue, wrought-iron bimah cage, men in hats and tallisim
1946: the iron bimah cage, men in hats and tallisim.
Old-New Synagogue interior today, bimah and ark
Today: the same interior. Photograph: Jose Antonio.

Prague

Jewish Town Hall and Old-New Synagogue
Červená / Maiselova, historic Jewish Quarter, Prague
50.0902, 14.4187

Google Earth view of the Town Hall and the Old-New Synagogue today. Open in Google Earth.

The film and what followed

German troops entered Prague on 15 March 1939. From 1941 the occupation authorities deported Prague’s Jews. The kehilla that used this street as a street was emptied. After the war a remnant, the She’eris Hapletah, used the Old-New again.

Timeline

Last third of the 13th century
Old-New Synagogue built; still the Prague kehilla’s main shul.
1439–1787
Old Jewish Cemetery in use; later stones stacked over earlier graves.
1609
The Maharal, Rabbi Judah Loew, is niftar; his grave becomes the cemetery’s most visited monument.
1787–1890
Žižkov cemetery, on Fibichova, takes the Prague kehilla’s burials after the old cemetery closes; about 40,000 graves.
1891
The Town Hall clocks switch from Prague local time to Central European time.
1893–1912
The old quarter’s lanes are cleared and the new streets are cut.
1906–1908
The Chevra Kadisha builds the Ceremonial Hall.
1907–1910
Houses around Pinkas Synagogue come down in the asanace. The street is raised. In 1925 a heritage commission asks for the fill to be taken out. It is not.
1925
A smaller slice of the Žižkov cemetery is already turned into a park, under the First Republic, before the later communist destruction.
1926
First film in this video: the Old-New Synagogue and the cemetery, including the Nefele mound, Maisel’s grave, the Maharal’s grave, Hendl Bassevi’s, and a card for Oppenheimer.
1934
Second film: the Town Hall clock, the Maisel Synagogue, a kosher kitchen sign on Bílkova, and the old cemetery.
1935
Silent amateur reel: the Hebrew clock, a quarter street, and the Maisel Synagogue gable.
1936
Amateur reel: the Hebrew clock and the Pinkas Synagogue sign.
1937
The Hebrew clock, the shul courtyard, the Ceremonial Hall and the print-shop banner beside it, and the Maharal’s grave up close, with visitor stones on the ledge.
15 March 1939
German occupation of Prague.
1941–1945
Deportations empty the Prague kehilla.
3 October 1946
March of Time films a Torah ceremony inside the Old-New. The catalog says American Jews gave that Torah.
1960
Communist authorities destroy most of the Žižkov cemetery and turn the ground into a park.
1985–1992
Žižkov Television Tower built on the former cemetery; a northern remnant remains beside the tower.