Historic Jewish Quarter of Prague
From 1926 to 1937, cameras walk Prague’s old Jewish quarter past the Hebrew clock, the Old-New Synagogue, and the cemetery, then in 1946 they film a Torah ceremony inside the Old-New.
Use the year buttons to jump: 1926 opens the file; 1934 begins at about 6:31; 1935 at about 8:33; 1936 at about 9:57; 1937 at about 10:25; 1946 at about 16:01. About 18 minutes in all.
Hands the other way
On the Jewish Town Hall gable, a Hebrew clock runs counterclockwise under a Roman face, with a Star of David on the spire. In 1934 the camera finds the tower from the street, then in 1935, 1936, and 1937 it comes back to the same dial. The Town Hall stands on Maiselova, next to the Old-New Synagogue, and both clocks are still on that corner.
Sebastian Londenspreger, the royal clockmaker who also kept the St Vitus clocks, made the works, which are about 250 years old. Until 1891 they showed Prague local time, set from the Marian column on Old Town Square; after that they show Central European time.
The stepped gable
The stepped brick gable of the Old-New Synagogue sits on the same street as the Town Hall, on Červená and Maiselova, with a low annex against the wall. The 1926, 1934, 1936, and 1937 films hold that gable in the street line. Built in the last third of the thirteenth century, it is still the main shul of the Prague kehillah.
A sign on the wall
Pinkas Synagogue sits on the same block. In 1936 a wall sign reads PINKASOVA SYNAGOGA and PROHLÍDKA (tour / viewing) beside the stone arch. The houses around that arch came down in the asanace (the clearance that cut new streets through the old Jewish quarter), in 1907 and 1910, after which the street was raised and the shul sat lower. In 1925 a heritage commission asked for the fill to be taken out; it was not, and the building remains below street level.
Tablets and the star
The Maisel Synagogue gable carries the Ten Commandments and a Star of David, and in 1934 and 1935 the cameras hold on those tablets. The shul was built for the Prague kehillah under Mordechai Maisel in the late sixteenth century. The building is a Jewish Museum hall now, and the street in front of it is ticketed museum traffic.
Jídelna Hirsch
At Bílkova 19 the 1934 film finds a kosher kitchen sign, Jídelna Hirsch (Hirsch Dining Room), in Czech, Hebrew, and Yiddish. The house number is still on that door; the kitchen and the trilingual board are gone.
The hall and the banner
In 1937 the Ceremonial Hall turret sits at the edge of the old cemetery, with a civic banner on the neighboring building: OBČANSKÁ KI…, for Občanská knihtiskárna, a civic print shop. The Chevra Kadisha, the burial society, built the hall in 1906 and 1908, and later leased it to the Jewish Museum. In the mid-1930s the shop’s imprint said Maiselova 17; by 1939 a directory puts them at U Starého hřbitova 4, the street of the hall. The hall is a museum building now; the neighboring building no longer carries that shop’s banner.
Among the stones
Stacked stones sit under the trees, a crowded field the cameras walk in 1926, 1934, and 1937. The Old Jewish Cemetery took burials from 1439 to 1787, later stones stacked over earlier graves. After it closed, the Prague kehillah buried at Žižkov, on Fibichova. A visitor now pays for a path through the old field, on the same crowded ground.
The Nefele mound
In 1926 two men in hats stand among the trees by the Nefele memorial. A 1903 cut went through the cemetery; stones were set in the wall, and a burial-society monument went up on the Nefele mound in 1906. Cemetery conservation on this field has been running since 1946, with the memorial still on the mound.
Maisel’s house
Mordechai Maisel, who built the Maisel Synagogue in the late sixteenth century, is buried under a house-shaped monument in the old cemetery. The 1926 film finds it among the trees; a visitor now sees it from a boarded walk.
Visitor stones
The Maharal, Rabbi Judah Loew, was niftar in 1609, and his grave is the cemetery’s most visited monument. In 1926 the pinecone finial is still on the stone, and people leave small stones on the ledges, the usual mark of a Jewish grave visit.
The lion and the shield
Hendl Bassevi was the wife of Jacob Bassevi von Treuenberg. Her grave in the old cemetery carries a seated lion with its paws on a shield, and the 1926 film holds on that carving. A small plaque now names her on the same path.
After the card
Rabbi David Oppenheim was land rabbi of Prague; he was niftar in 1736, and his grave is the middle stone of a row in the old cemetery. The 1926 film shows an Oppenheimer title card, then ornate markers that are not his grave.
The iron cage
Inside the Old-New the bimah sits in a wrought-iron cage, before the ark. On 3 October 1946, March of Time (a cinema newsreel) filmed a Torah ceremony there: men in hats and talleisim at that cage. After the war a remnant, the She’eris Hapleitah, used this room again, and the catalog says American Jews gave that Torah to the Prague kehillah. The cage and the ark are still in that room.
Prague
Jewish Town Hall and Old-New Synagogue
Červená / Maiselova, historic Jewish Quarter, Prague
50.0902, 14.4187
Google Earth view of the Town Hall and the Old-New Synagogue today. Open in Google Earth.
The film and what followed
German troops entered Prague on 15 March 1939. From 1941 the occupation authorities deported Prague’s Jews, emptying the kehillah that had used this street as a street.
A smaller slice of the Žižkov cemetery, on Fibichova, had already been turned into a park under the First Republic. In 1960 communist authorities destroyed most of what remained and turned that ground into a park as well. Between 1985 and 1992 the Žižkov Television Tower was built on the former cemetery, with a northern remnant left beside the tower.
Timeline
- Last third of the 13th century
- Old-New Synagogue built; still the Prague kehillah’s main shul.
- 1439, 1787
- Old Jewish Cemetery in use; later stones stacked over earlier graves.
- 1609
- The Maharal, Rabbi Judah Loew, is niftar; his grave becomes the cemetery’s most visited monument.
- 1787, 1890
- Žižkov cemetery, on Fibichova, takes the Prague kehillah’s burials after the old cemetery closes; about 40,000 graves.
- 1891
- The Town Hall clocks switch from Prague local time to Central European time.
- 1893, 1912
- The old quarter’s lanes are cleared and the new streets are cut.
- 1906, 1908
- The Chevra Kadisha builds the Ceremonial Hall.
- 1907, 1910
- Houses around Pinkas Synagogue come down in the asanace. The street is raised. In 1925 a heritage commission asks for the fill to be taken out. It is not.
- 1925
- A smaller slice of the Žižkov cemetery is already turned into a park, under the First Republic, before the later communist destruction.
- 1926
- First film in this video: the Old-New Synagogue and the cemetery, including the Nefele mound, Maisel’s grave, the Maharal’s grave, Hendl Bassevi’s, and a card for Oppenheimer.
- 1934
- Second film: the Town Hall clock, the Maisel Synagogue, a kosher kitchen sign on Bílkova, and the old cemetery.
- 1935
- Silent amateur reel: the Hebrew clock, a quarter street, and the Maisel Synagogue gable.
- 1936
- Amateur reel: the Hebrew clock and the Pinkas Synagogue sign.
- 1937
- The Hebrew clock, the shul courtyard, the Ceremonial Hall and the print-shop banner beside it, and the Maharal’s grave up close, with visitor stones on the ledge.
- 15 March 1939
- German occupation of Prague.
- 1941, 1945
- Deportations empty the Prague kehillah.
- 3 October 1946
- March of Time films a Torah ceremony inside the Old-New. The catalog says American Jews gave that Torah.
- 1960
- Communist authorities destroy most of the Žižkov cemetery and turn the ground into a park.
- 1985, 1992
- Žižkov Television Tower built on the former cemetery; a northern remnant remains beside the tower.